News Archive
11 September 2006
Port of Nome, Alaska (still!)
AGX on hold till next year
I received word early last Thursday morning that the Russian authorities were allowing me to proceed without the need for a visa. The instruction was to sail to Provideniya on Siberia's western coast for the mandatory boat inspection and to be issued with the various permits needed to make the passage along Russia's Northern Sea Route.
This decision by the Russian authorities takes courage, imagination and vision and for that I praise them. I believe they see and understand the unique nature of the voyage I am making.
However, this welcome news comes too late. New ice is growing along the route. The western side of Proiv Vil'kitskogo, a narrow strait half-way along Russia's Arctic coast is now blocked. The ice edge migration was mirroring 2005 when the ice edge continued to recede through September, but on 30th August, the ice melt ceased and new ice began to form ending similarity with last year and bringing foreclosure.
The interplay of environmental factors affecting the behaviour of the ice makes accurate forecasting impossible. This sudden reversal of the melt is illustrative of the very real dangers of the route.
My plan is to winter the boat in Nome, Alaska. Crowley Marine Services (Nome
Terminal) will lift Barrabas once more. Without usual marina storage facilities, we are going to improvise. To avoid weight being taken on the keel, we will scoop a trench and position blocking on either side. Barrabas will be set down on the blocking with her keel, skeg, propeller and rudder suspended in the trench. Her boom and mast will come down, all fuel taken off, batteries and electronics disengaged, the engine winterized and the boat made secure for the icy winter ahead.
I will return to this remote wilderness of tundra and mountains in June next year in good time to prepare Barrabas for the final phase of her voyage and make the first single-handed attempt on the Northern Sea Route without the time pressures which have dogged this year's effort.
It is often so much harder to make the decision not to go on, but there is little merit in entertaining unnecessary risk. My assessment is based on pragmatism and the paramount need for safety. I don't feel that taking a break devalues the Alpha Global Expedition, conversely there are a number of advantages. The far north is a hostile environment which demands the highest respect. I take the view that this phase is worthy of treatment as an expedition in its own right. To come at the attempt refreshed and fully recovered from the various injuries I have sustained along the way can only improve my chances.
Barrabas and I have come far together, we have shared pivotal moments, weathered danger, rejoiced in the elemental beauty of the sea, taken care of one another and journeyed the hard road. I am naturally anxious at leaving her, but I know that the people of this small and remarkable place will care for her until I return.